BA Falcon drive belt replacement

4th December 2007

BA Falcon Drivebelt Replacement

posted in Back to Basics, DIY Tutorials |

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Today we are taking a look at what is involved in replacing the serpentine belt on a 4.0 BA Falcon.

These first two steps are not compulsory, I do these to get better access to the belt and tensioner however you can replace the belt without doing them. I start by removing the two phillips-head screws that attach the air intake to the radiator support panel and removing the air intake. Then remove the top two 10mm bolts that hold the electric fans in place, seperate the electrical connection to the fans which is located on the drivers side not far from the fan housing. A gentle pull on the top of the fan housing and a little bit of manouvering and the fan housing will come out. Note the fitment of the coolant resevior hose between the fan housing and the top of the radiator.

Using a 3/8 drive ratchet fiited into the slot in the tensioner, push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the waterpump pulley. Release the tensioner and completely remove the old belt. Note that the belt is fitted behind the tensioner pulley.

Fit the new belt following the above diagram, remembering to fit the belt from the back of the tensioner pulley. I start with the crankshaft pulley and work my way around in a anti-clockwise direction with the belt and leave the belt off the waterpump pulley until the tensioner is moved down.

Once you have the belt in position push down on the ratchet again, slide the belt over the waterpump pulley and release the tensioner and remove the ratchet. Be sure to double-check that the belt is running correctly on each pulley.

Once satisfied that all is good slide the fan housing into place, refit the two 10mm bolts in the top and don’t forget to fit the coollant resevior hose back into place before doing the bolts up. Refit the air intake and screws. Start the engine and check that the belt is running correctly and you are all done.

Craig

This entry was posted on Tuesday, December 4th, 2007 at 12:31 pm and is filed under Back to Basics, DIY Tutorials. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

1 On December 24th, 2007, john said:

Thanks for the information, the photos where very helpful. I was going to get a mechanic until I came across your page. Luckily it worked for my EF.

2 On December 24th, 2007, craig said:

I’m glad you found the article useful John. Merry Christmas to you.

3 On January 11th, 2008, Tim said:

Champion! I’m sure you can imagine how annoyed I was getting, belt seemed way too long (it came off while driving so I didn’t get to check the position of the old one). Bookmarked your site for future reference. Thanks mate.

4 On January 11th, 2008, craig said:

Hi Tim,
Glad you found our site useful. I know what you mean, they sure are a pain in the #### to fit when you have no diagram to go off!

5 On January 15th, 2008, Colin said:

Hi Craig
Thanks for this info. Moving the tensioner with the 3/8 ratchet and removing the electric fans, is this done the same way on the AU? Thanks Col.

6 On January 15th, 2008, craig said:

Hi Colin,
Yep, follow these steps for the AU as well. I think the only difference is the tensioner is in a different place.
If you need any more help please send me an email.

7 On January 26th, 2008, colin said:

Hi Craig

Thanks for the info. The belt and two idlers now replaced on the AU. Going by your pic AU and BA look very similar. Do you have any thoughts on the following, I have an AU series 3 sedan 117,000 km. It has a drive line type vibration and drown around 55kmh that you can hear and feel. It does not vibrate you out of the car but is noticeable. It is there at faster speeds but not as bad. It is made more noticeable the more the back of the vehicle is pushed down, weight in the boot, dip in road. The tail shaft has been changed with one from another AU of lower mileage, making no difference. I know it is very difficult with out driving the car, but I was wondering if you had come across this one before. Thanks for help already given, and thanks for any thoughts you can give on this vibration. Col.

8 On May 3rd, 2008, Davo said:

Hello.

Thaks for this info. Just made what would ahve been 2 to 3 hours of discovery on my AUII VCT a 30 minute job. Very grateful.

I’m with colin though [ie it didn’t fix my problem], I have a whining noise coming off the belt somewhere. I check all the wheels for rotation and they all rotate relatively freely. The Alternator was quite heavy though I think this seems normal as it’s seems like a weighted item which keeps rotating for a bit once you stop. Any tips on how to locate such a noise?

9 On May 13th, 2008, Bret said:

Hi Collin, Sounds a bit like wheel bearings my friend. If its worse as you say going over dips and more constant when you have a load in the boot or a couple of larger people in the back I’d put my money on rears at least. Worth a shot.
Also thanks to Craig for his photos…well done!
Cheers,

Bret

10 On July 25th, 2008, mik said:

hi collin, is this the same procedure and set up for a 96 xh longreach utility?

cheers
mik

11 On July 25th, 2008, mik said:

sorry, i meant the question for Craig

again
mik

12 On July 25th, 2008, craig said:

Mik,
Yes, the setup is similar on your vehicle. Basically the tensioner is the same and is moved in the same way. The only differences that I can remember are the belt is routed differently and there is a plastic cover that sits on top of the power steer pump and runs across the tappet cover to the thermostat housing and needs to be removed to allow easier access to the belt. One 10mm nut on the thermostat housing side and removing the lid of the power steer reservoir will allow removal of this cover.

Regards,
Craig